Faster isn’t always the best. That’s why mass-produced clothes will always pale in comparison to tailor-made ones. In a sense, machine-made clothes from tailors aren’t always better than ones stitched by hand. Even the most expensive tailor-made clothes are usually made by hand because the precision, the quality, and the look of clothes made by hand using traditional tailoring techniques are often times better than what machines can produce. If you want to learn more about traditional tailoring and how they are used on different suits, reading further might be informative.
The collars of jackets, vests, and coats, for example, are usually interfaced with horse canvas made from tail brushings. Some traditional tailors also use goat hair canvas. This is preferable to pad stitches though the latter is usually combined with horsehair canvas to have better control over the shape of the garment.
In traditional tailoring, even buttonholes are sewed. However, it’s better to sew a bound buttonhole instead of making a hole by hand or by machine. While it may be tempting to use a machine to create buttonholes on the garments, bound buttonholes are better and are a lot different because they give an added look to the garment that hand or machine-made buttonholes can’t.
Traditional tailoring also calls for the use of horse hair canvas on lapels and hand pad stitches. Some even use twill tape along the roll line where the lapel folds back towards the chest area of the suit or jacket. The purpose of which is to maintain the blazer or jacket’s structure and to avoid it losing its shape.
Back of the garment
A backstay is often used by those that practice traditional tailoring techniques. They use it to prevent the coat, jacket, or blazer from stretching out in the shoulder area. Backstays are often made out of muslin. They can also be easily made using the same pattern for sewing the back of the coat.
In traditional tailoring, linings are always hand sewn. This is because hand sewing the linings removes the possibility of having uncomfortable and ugly-looking seams inside the coat or the jacket. Those seams are usually caused by turning the garment inside-out.