It is to be expected that when you order a bespoke outfit, you would get something that fits your body and needs perfectly. But what distinguishes a store-bought shirt from a tailor-made one?
Here is a list of 10 elements that differentiate your regular clothing from a custom made one.
#1: FABRIC QUALITY
Fabric type and quality are one of the key aspects that distinguishes a tailor-made shirt from a store bought one. Most bespoke suits are made from natural products such as wool, silk or fine cotton. This is one of the major difference between the suits, as the mass-produced suits are generally made from synthetic fabrics, which do not have the same smooth and luscious feel as a custom-made one.
Tailor-made suits are lined thoroughly throughout the entire attire with the same linings, not just on the outside, but also the pockets and interiors should be lined with the same materials as the outer layers. The same is said about the trousers as well.
#3: SUPERB FLOW ON SHOULDERS
A custom made suits will always have a good rest and fit on the wearer’s shoulders, as it has been measured thoroughly to fit with one’s body perfectly.
It is an issue with store-bought jackets that the shoulders fit are often slightly too wide, thus the edge are falling off of the shoulders or too tight in that it squeezes the shoulder in.
You can expect to get a fit that flows nicely along your body and complements it well when you order a custom made suit. It won’t be baggy or tight around the shoulders and back area because every measurement is recorded so every nook and cranny on your body is noted and designed around it.
#4: CLEAN LAPELS & CHEST AREA
A tailored suit will have a clean finish and fit around the lapel and chest area. You can see this more clearly when you have the jacket button tucked in. A non-tailored suit will show a distinct “X” shape along the chest down to the stomach and the lapels will bulge outward. A well-fitted suit should not have any creases or tension on the fabric that pulls inward on your body. The suit should sit flat on your body with a natural flow with your form. Additionally, the lapels will roll gently on the body while not tugging on the suit.
#5: SMOOTH COLLAR
Same with the shoulder and lapel areas, the collar will have a much better fit on a custom made suit. The collar should have no fabric bunches or folds that form unnaturally as you move. There should also be no gap that between the neck and the collar. This is done by having a felt lining that holds the shape of the overall collar, supporting its weight to keep its intended shape. If you inspect closely on the collar of a tailored suit, you will find a small stitchings that were done by hand to have a specific shape according to the client’s measurements. This is a sign of attention that can only be found in a crafted piece of clothing, and not in a mass-produced product.
#6: ROUNDED CORNERS
While being obscure to most, a person with a tailoring knowledge would be able to detect rounded corners around the hem, sleeves and lapels. This is important because a well-designed corners and the areas that will take on most pressure as the wearer moves will be able to hold its shape much longer and with less stress, making it last longer. A store-bought jacket is starting to round the tips of the lapels but not around the sleeves and the hems.
If you ask a tailor a differentiating aspect of a tailor-made suit, they would probably say that the tailored ones are canvassed. What this means is that there is a middle layer between the fabric of the suits that are lined with canvas; a classic sign of a well-made suit. This is done to prevent wear and tear and make the overall structure of the suits more durable.
In most market jackets, there is no canvassing, and the layers of fabrics are simply glued together, which makes it susceptible to tears on both layers.
An easy way to check for canvassing is to pinch and move the layers of the suit, if you can feel a layer in between the top and the bottom layer, then the suit is made and lined canvassed.
Pick stitching is an intricate stitching that runs along the edge of the suit around the lapels and pockets of the suit. In a tailored suit, the process is done by hand, and thus much less noticeable, which is a mark of good craftsmanship.
All tailored suits use handmade buttonholes which are often custom made for a measured suits. They are more finely stitched and with more care put into each one to avoid as much stress to be put on the buttons which can damage the suit. It is also easy to check and can be done by looking at the inside of the buttonhole. The stitchings will be less rigid and have certain irregularities to them compared to a more similar stitchings of a machine.
Tailored suits are generally made from horn or mother of pearl, a more costly materials that are less susceptible to degradation and discoloration over time. High-quality buttons are generally a good indicator of a well-made suits, as a mass-produced product will need to cut cost and use cheaper materials.
Knowing the differences between a cheap, machine-made suits and a handcrafted ones would put you in great position to explore the options for your future suits. If you are interested in having your very own, high-quality custom-made suit, book an appointment with us, and we will make sure you get the suit that you deserve!
Nickermann’s Tailor has been rated as one of the best tailors in Bangkok for a reason, we are convenient, affordable & provide incredible customizability for our clients – get in touch to see how we can help today!