When we hear the word “custom suit,” we immediately associate it with
Canvassing vs. Fused
Canvassing is a suit crafting technique where the tailor stitches in a layer of canvas to between the layers of the suit fabrics. This layer of canvas allows the suit to have a little bit more weight, helping the suit drape better along the body of the wearer. It can also lengthen the longevity of the suit by many years with regular maintenance. If you don’t like the extra weight, you could opt for a half-canvas style for the same benefits but for the upper body only. This is something that you can only get from a professional tailor, as most off-the-rack suits will simply glue the two sides of the fabrics together, making it prone to ripping and tearing as you move.
The lapel roll is one of the most distinguishable features of a custom suit, as the lapels of a bespoke suit will be canvassed as well. This will give the lapel a more substantial look, and that effect emphasizes the thick lines that go from your collar down towards the middle button with a notable curl at the top of the lapels. Again, this effect can’t be replicated with a fused suit.
An off-the-rack suit won’t have buttonholes on the lapels, as they aren’t absolutely necessary, but that’s the point. The lapel buttons help to keep the lapels attached to your chest, making them look wider. And no matter what you’re doing, the lapels won’t flail up and ruin your outfit.
Pick stitching might not be a term that you hear every day, but once you know what it is, you’ll never go back to a normal suit again. Simply put, it’s a layer of fabric that forms a thin line on the hem of your suit jacket. This helps the fabric to be a lot more durable, as it’s harder to rip and tear the edges of the suit. The edges are the areas where suits show first signs of wear-and-tear. You can also add a twist of personality to it, and you can’t ever get that from a store-bought suit.
Some tailors like to add their own signatures to the suits they craft, and they do that through accent threads. These are usually hidden on a lapel or behind it, and it can help to add another layer of authenticity and originality to your suit.
Staying on the topic of authenticity, monogramming your suits will show that this suit belongs to you and you only. This is a very common custom in wedding tuxedos, as the grooms will usually have their initials above the inside pocket of the side. No matter how hard you look, you won’t find a suit that looks exactly like this if it’s monogrammed with something that’s unique to you.
Functional Sleeve Buttons
Sleeve buttons aren’t necessary anymore, so some manufacturers opt to get rid of them and stitch fake buttons on them instead. From a distance, they may look like real buttons, but when you compare them side by side, you can clearly see that the fabric flows a little bit better with real buttons. Every bespoke suit still comes with functional sleeve buttons so you can be sure that your sleeves will look the best no matter what.
Also known as stacked buttons, kissing buttons are the overlapping column of buttons that you sometimes see on the sleeves. These are a true fashion statement, as they have no functional benefits whatsoever, but they just look so good! That, along with the fact that they require a lot of work to do correctly, is the reason why you will only see tailored suits with this style of sleeve buttons.
Nowadays, most suit manufacturers opt for flap pockets. There isn’t really anything wrong with them, but we traditionalists believe that the classic hacking pockets look a lot classier than cheap flaps that bop up and down with your every move.
And of course, how could we mention tailored suits without a tailored fit? The fit is the majority of the reason why people get tailored suits in the first place. Your tailor will meticulously measure your body down to the slightest detail before making you a suit. You can even make alterations after the suit has been crafted to ensure that the fitting is as close to perfection as it can be. You can have an off-the-rack suit custom-fitted to your measurements, but it’s just not the same as when the entire suit is crafted just for you.
Are you looking for a tailored suit in Bangkok? Get in touch with us today! We’re happy to help.